Simple Modern Sewing, Japanese Sewing

And my wedding outfit is finished!

Whew. Ultimately, I'm really happy with it and there would have been no pleasing me at the stores. I'm far to fussy and then far too cheap. 

Here's the deal as I see it on making garments from Japanese patterns. Remember that I am a very beginner garment maker. Maybe not anymore but sewing from these patterns was way above my pay grade. 

*** If you have no interest in this sewing stuff, skip down past the numbered paragraphs. 

Japanese bodies are different from American and European bodies.  And guess what!!! There is no standards in sizing! Isn't that so cool? Break out the hard stuff.

So, say you are an American sized large, you will need to:

1. Find the pattern pieces you need among the stacked patterns.

2. Use a highlighter to trace around the pattern. Take a nap.

3. Trace again onto paper. I used gridded interfacing (and I guess, but haven't tried, the Swedish Sewable Pattern paper would be good). 

4. Figure out how to enlarge the patterns and do so. This is initially pretty danged tricky and I wouldn't suggest have a glass of wine while you're at it. Though you may need one afterwards. You really need to measure the armholes in particular and the dart placement. You may recall my recent post Cockeyed. Check the length as well. I'm average height but needed to add length to everything. I have to tell you here that it is very fun to make up those patterns, all those little arrows and dashed lines. I have a black felt tip marker and it is awesome to write on that interfacing. Small pleasures.

5. Cut out your traced pattern.

6. Lay out your pattern pieces and add in the seam allowances! If you are smart you will retrace the enlarged pattern with the seam allowances. But I keep forgetting. I've added pockets to dresses, pants and skirts. What's the point of no pockets?

7. Make a muslin first before you cut into some really gorgeous fabric. Or make it with some less expensive fabric from the sales. 

8. Sew as usual. The Japanese sewing books are very short on explicit instruction. If you are a beginner, I really suggest sewing lessons or getting someone knowledgeable to help. You'll save on booze and you'll learn all sorts of nifty things like what "ease" means. 

I really love almost every single garment in Simple Modern Sewing (review here). So far I'm made a peasant-y kind of blouse (2x's), the little jacket for my dress - at the top of the post -  is the same pattern pieces. Now that's pretty good stuff. I've made a simple gathered skirt and the dress which can be worn as a jumper.

I'm making another top that I'm pretty excited about which uses the same pattern pieces (lengthened) as a dress. You can really use a ton of creativity putting these pieces together with different fabrics for different seasons. You could add bits of fabric and embroidery and wear clothing that reflects your own sense of style.

Most important, I'm learning about my body. Learning to accept it, love it and clothe it with enthusiasm and some originality. My husband remarked that I looked really happy in my new clothes and my son asked me how I felt wearing them. That's what I'm talking about. It seems that middle aged women are invisible in the fashion world. That is not cool. 

This stuff takes time. It's been a sabbatical of sorts and well worth it.

How do you feel about your clothing? There's been a lot of talk in the news lately about fast fashion. Buying a lot of cheap clothes and then more. Throw away society. We all do this. It's quick and convenient. I just want to give myself this gift now. 

Comments

[Mary H]

Your outfit looks really lovely! I'm happy for you that you're having this positive experience with sewing your clothes. I used to sew most of my own clothes - from high school until I was a single working mother. Then I sewed for my daughter until she was a preteen. Since then I've sewed mainly for my house (curtains, pilow covers, etc.) but I want to start sewing for myself again. I buy mostly thrift store clothes because I'm "thrifty" and because I don't want to have to worry about what sweatshop they were made in and because most of the new clothes are more expensive but not better quality any more.

[Hazel Price]

Beautiful, beautiful fabric, and an ensemble which looks truly joyful! I'm sure you will look and feel wonderful and boy! do you deserve to after all your hard work. You have such patience and skill.

As ever you teach and inspire as you go.

love and appreciation. x

[Diana Trout]

hazel, my friend, thank you. I have obsession, am working on patience which will bring skill :) have a good weekend!

[Diana Trout]

Thrift stores are great, right?! I've picked up some wonderful pieces there, too. My fav is out of business :( I wish you luck on your self-sewing. It takes way more time than I expected.

[Wendy @ the Late Start Studio]

Well done you! You'll make a stunning member of the wedding party :) Love the advice on when to take a nap or have a drink.

As for my attitude to clothes . . . I think it demands a post on my blog! Later today though . . . coffee and then breakfast (and another coffee) first!!!

[KathyAnne]

Beautiful! I've been waiting to hear more about this dress... and wish I could SEE more of it and the jacket... have to say: I LOVE the orange! Congratulations! I'm sure you are stunning in the outfit.

[Barb]

I really like the design. The last thing I made was a lined green suit for myself when my kids were tiny and they are 42 and 37 now, soooo you can tell that I have given up sewing. This amazing jacket would be way above my pay grade and I would be kidding myself that I could even begin to accomplish anything of this quality.
I would need more than just a few drinks to even consider taking on this sewing task. Your sewing skills are no longer novice quality. If you can tackle this jacket, you can sew anything.
Barb
North Carolina

[Cathy Slobodzian Kress]

Beautiful!
My favorite step is No. 2.

[Diana Trout]

I'd love to hear what you have to say, Wendy. I always enjoy!

[Diana Trout]

Thank you KathyAnne. I will have wedding pics up - I'm so comfortable in it!

[Diana Trout]

Hah! It's probably been that long for me as well since my early teens and the days of zipping up a simplicity pattern with no alterations needed. The jacket was not hard, since it is a raglan sleeve and the gathers are just a ribbon that goes through the interfacing.

[Diana Trout]

Napping! Yes, indeed or putting your feet up and chatting with a good friend.

[Aloquin]

Beautiful :)

Myself? I have tshirts... I WANT more fancy shirts, like maybe some frilly or even beach-style (Cape Codish? LOL) but in time :)

[Diana Trout]

sometimes it feels ridiculous for me to get dressed to go to the studio.

[ainelivia]

That looks really great, well done. I have used one of these patterns too and I laughed out loud when I read instruction No.2, I took regular naps in between the different steps, have a wonderful time.

[Diana Trout]

Oh boy, it's a winding road through those patterns. I must have spent more than an hour last night puzzling over the sleeve instructions in my next project. Are you working from a book or another Japanese pattern.

[Carla Mazzone]

I couldn't tell you how many seam rippers I've gone through! Your dress is lovely and those purses you made are so sweet! Many blessings to the newlyweds. Enjoy the day.
Carla

[Sandra L.]

I think that is just beautiful, Diana!
I can't really sew, but my mom is a talented seamstress. We have a running joke. I will say, "Mom, if I make a dress, will you help me?" And she says, "You mean, will I make you a dress while you sit and talk to me as I sew?"

The last couple patterns I picked out (marked "simple and easy") were anything but. Now I am under orders not to choose patterns w/o her present.

XO

[Diana Trout]

Now that is a nice mom. Good of you to keep her company ;)

[Diana Trout]

Thank you, carla. We are getting very excited for the day.

[Jennifer]

Just tried to tackle the pattern cutting for the first time. Your highlighter & nap suggestions were priceless! Thanks for helping to make such a daunting stacked pattern less stressful.

[Diana Trout]

Oh boy! I hope it works out for you. Please let me know and remember: booze AFTER, not during

[Nobu Murakawa]

hmmmm !! Lovely Japanese pattern and fabric Diana. Keep it up :)